It's a bad night when you have to send back a mango lassi. My companions in crime - a celebrity, a rock star's bodyguard, and a local government person - struggled womanfully on with their thick and frothy beverages as a dry and tasteless sev puri became the second target of my opprobrium. "Even the food here's crap." We'd pitched up at the curry caff in Soho after a piece of theatre that reminded us of Creature Comforts, but with Asians instead of Nick Park creations. No plasticine. We were so busy debating its merits that we'd missed all the warning signs on entering the gaff. Like a shortage of punters, noise, and plates greater than six inches in diameter. We were there because one of our party knew the owner. "He needs support," she said. Halfway through the meal it was clear why. But our order was in the bag by then. Earlier, I'd enjoyed two coffee meetings followed by a buffet lunch with power networkers. Profiteroles and business cards. It's difficult to judge a person's proficiency if there's no cause to test the practical applications of their service. Is it enough that you can laugh together? I must ask my mate how many laughs she's had with her restaurant owning pal. That may provide some indication;-)